NAUTICA JAPAN COLLECTION
Ivy League style journey from NYC to Japan
Ivy league staples are the foundation of cityboy style and Akio Hasegawa’s Nautica Japan collections. Akio’s inspired designs are back in a new collection this May so we look back at the history of American prep in Japan.
Ivy league was introduced to Japan by VAN JACKET founder, Kensuke Ishizu. Ishizu learnt about preppy style when imprisoned with an American first lieutenant and Ivy league alumni during the war. Upon his release Ishizu set up his own label and in 1948 the iconic VAN JACKET was launched (originally under a different name).
Despite Ishizu’s enthusiasm and vision, Ivy style was not a quick success. At this time, Japanese shopping was still made-to-measure and the western off-the-rack experience was considered cheap. In addition, the pants, button-down shirts and knit sweaters that create the base for preppy fashion were seen as too casual. After a trip to the US Ivy league campuses VAN JACKET refocussed to a new audience; Japanese students. The brand released its Ivy Line in 1962. The collection included chino pants, navy blazers, Seersucker suits and Ischizu’s Ivy model suit; a replica of Brooks Brothers iconic Number One Suit. Through an editorial collaboration with trend forecaster Mens Club magazine (formerly Mens Clothing) Ishizu was able to capture the attention of fashion-conscious Japanese youth. With the publications “Ivy Leaguers Spotted” column Mens Club created a cult interest and started what we now know as “street style”. Japanese students flocked to the spot where the magazines photographer visited weekly in the hope they would be featured. Adding to the growing style converts Ivy was getting through this magazine Ischizu was invited to design the 1964 Japanese Olympic uniform. Suddenly Ivy was seen as relevant and culturally suitable. As Japan embraced Ivy fashion VAN JACKET’s availability expanded to departments across the country. By the end of the 1960’s possession of a rolled-up VAN JACKET shopping bag was a status symbol.
Across the world, preppy fashion has come and gone but as with all markets preppy staples are now the basics of everyday Japanese style. It is in this trend Japan’s streetwear designers like Nautica Japan’s Akio Hasegawa find inspiration.
In Nautica Japan’s latest release, Akio’s vintage Nautica inspiration is seen in the choice of fabrics and the use of the pigment dying process. Achieving a lived-in, aged look combined with collegiate arched logos and Nautica’s Spinnaker emblem the collection connects to 90s Nautica authentically.
The collection of basics cut in cityboy sizes may seem simple at first look however the pared-back designs focus the collection on the quality of fabric and construction. Fabric weights are above average in all pieces. Hoodies, sweaters and track pants are 1.5 times heavier than the average, increasing durability and ensuring the garment falls exactly as it was designed to. Ultra-heavy pique polo shirts are constructed with a 2-yarn fabric knitted together at high density that protects them from sagging over time.
Nautica Australia is proud to be the 3rd country to offer the exclusive collection for a second season. The wide range of polo shirts, tracksuits and shirts is available to shop at Nautica Australia online and select retailers.
